A travel blog with each entry in 75 words or less.
Living in Europe leaves us no excuse for not exploring the continent. The Rhône rises in Switzerland, meets the Saône at Lyon and flows into the Mediterranean near Arles. A major trade route for two thousand years, our voyage sailed upstream through Roman outposts and catholic enclaves. Today, art festivals replace market traders and tourists usurp pilgrims. The weather was fine and the Mistral blowed lightly keeping humidity at bay. It was all rather idyllic.
How to choose a cruise?
Make something else a priority - watching an Ashes test from the Lord’s pavillion. Essential criteria: departure as soon as the cricket finished. We, more exactly my wife, chose well. A modern ship, well laid-out cabins; none of the faux glitz and tiny balconies we spied on passing rival vessels. We rapidly dropped into a relaxing routine: eat, tour, eat, tour, cruise, eat, sleep whilst the Avalon Poetry II gently plied its way up stream.
No worries!
Cruising is a somewhat hermetically sealed world. The thought of bubbly cruise directors flogging sterile day trips to name-tag wearing punters filled me with dread. As did the prospect of blindly following flag waving guides squeezing the life out of historic cities with monotonously sprouted tidbits. We were blessed with well-informed guides and a cruise director who was cheerful and effective rather than earning commission pushing unwanted extras. I need not have worried.Sod the expense and go with the flow
Cruising looks expensive, but cost the alternative: driving, hotels, admission tickets, hours of planning and it becomes good value. With no time for pre-planning we opted for the included guided tours. These were a pleasant way to discover the essentials of French history in Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur and Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes. Yes, a little superficial and anglicised but its a holiday not an educational tour - the high-brow stuff can come another time.
Avalon Waterways/Avalon Poerty II Rhone Cruise (4.0/5)
Enjoyable and relaxing experience. The only quibbles are around the margins; wine not quite top-notch, evening entertainers popular rather than representative of Provence culture. It was France; we ate good French food, drank French wine, visited French towns, but it was not French, more France for English speaking tourists. Blessed with good weather we cruised through beautiful French countryside, stopping to tour historic towns with well-informed guides. A holiday on which to unwind.
Cannes (2.5/5)
InterContinental Carlton Cannes Hotel (3.5/5)
Grand architecture, celebrity legend, large comfortable suites and huge buffet breakfasts. One night is not long enough to properly experience such a hotel. Access to our rooms was delayed for several hours by dilly-dallying arabs with more wealth than timeliness. One hopes the hotel charged them extra and refunded several seriously inconvenienced incoming guests. An impressive assembly point before transferring to the Avalon Poetry II moored in Arles.La Malmaison: Niki de Saint Phalle - l'ombre et la lumière (3.5/5)
An art gallery specialising in solo exhibitions of C20th and C21st artists. Currently showing a colourful exhibition of the late French/American artist Niki de Saint Phalle who is reknown for bright sculptures and three dimensional works, often incorporating social commentary. It takes time to understand Phalle's works that can be perplexing and perhaps too much when it is bright and sunny outside. Yet the exhibition is not without rewards.
Arles (4.0/5)
On the Rhône estuary a trading city halfway between Italy and Spain; occupied by Celts, Phoenicians, Romans, Popes, Revolutionaries and Nazis. The Romans left a magnificent amphitheatre and built an aqueduct. The Catholics added l’Cathédrale Saint-Trophime d'Arles. The citizens built l'hotel de ville and a hospital once home to van Gogh (Hôtel Dieu Saint Espirit). History and art buffs could get lost here. A tour of historic Arles a stimulating primer for the journey ahead.
UNESCO World Heritage Site #01
Foundation Vincent Van Gogh: Niko Pirosmani - Wanderer between Worlds (3.0/5)
The Foundation exhibits contemporary artists with a connection to van Gogh.
A somewhat bleak exhibition interspaced with touches of humour and the van Gogh exhibition 'Speed & Aplomb'. Both artists worked alone recording everyday sights in quickly composed pictures with broad strokes and simple colours. Some might consider this comparison a bit of a stretch, Pirosmani's work is often bleak whereas van Gogh hid darkness with colour. Taken alone, Pirosmani offers a stark glimpse into early C20th Georgian pheasant life that is rarely seen and seldom cheerful.
Pont du Gard (4.0/5)
One off the bucket list that delivers much more than the picture postcard shot of a Roman bridge, spectacular though that is. As the absorbing visitor centre explains the bridge is only a 365m part of a 50km aqueduct bring freshwater to the city of Nimes. Too many visitors skip the informative exhibition and rush to the river, thus depriving themselves of an opportunity to fully appreciation the enormous skills of Roman engineers and craftsmen.
UNESCO World Heritage Site #02
The aqueduct demonstrates an extraordinary mastery of civil and hydraulic engineering. Determining the route alone was a phenomenal piece of surveying, weaving around hills and gorges, maintaining a gentle gradient whilst avoiding the difficulties of tunnelling and minimising the height of the key viaduct at Pont de Gard. The on-site museum explains this and other engineering feats with unearthed remains and models recreating life in the first century. In twenty years Roman hydrologists designed and built a complete water distribution system. 50km from source via an aqueduct carrying 40,000m3 of water a day to a network of clay, lead and timber pipes feeding public baths, fountains and homes in Nimes. That such a feat could be accomplished 2,000 years ago is almost mind-blowing, that humankind could lose such skills and go backwards through the Dark and Middle Ages is equally incomprehensible. Avignon (2.5/5)
UNESCO World Heritage Site #03
Bollene Lock (3.0/5)
France’s extensive post-WWII lock system provides water and power supplies, navigation, irrigation and flood protection. At 23 meters Bollene is the deepest of the fifteen we negotiate. From the sky deck passengers admire the captain’s handling skills as he deftly nudges his vessel through each lock with a mere 200mm clearance to play with. No bumps or surges of water as the ship rises sedately, just metallic squeals from the chamber’s floating bollards.
Viviers (4.0/5)
A small town from the Middle Ages with some fine features to which dusty decay adds a layer of still lived-in authenticity whilst suggesting a degree of neglect. It is easy to picture throngs of people going about their daily business in the old narrow streets below l’Cathédrale Saint-Vincent de Viviers. Invasions and revolutions have passed-through without taking-over, leaving an authentic commune of medieval streets offering glimpses of vernacular and high architecture
Viviers presents a different perspective of French history. The town sits just off the tourist roadmap, which may have helped to retain its rustic charm. Unlike the formalised conservation and organised tourism of Arles, Pont du Gard and Avignon, Viviers struggles on. The ravages of time worn almost proudly on the facades of its ancient buildings and dwindling population.
Tournon (3.0/5)
Famous for chocolate and wine of which we saw and more seriously tasted none during an early morning stop at this small, tidy, C16th village. Typically a castle-cum-catholic church sits on the hill above the village. The surrounding hills tiered with well manicured vineyards. The Passerelle Marc Seguin linking Tournon and Tain L'Hermitage is an interesting historical remnant. An early cable wire suspension bridge, its ninety meter span sits lightly above the Rhone.
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| The Passerelle Marc Seguin is an early example of a cable wire suspension bridge that came to replace heavier chains of iron links. The ninety meter span sits lightly above the river, a tight fit for the Avalon Poetry II. |
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Vienne (3.5/5)
Back to Romans and Catholics - Vienne 1311, Pope Clement V abolishes the Knights Templar. The Cathédrale Saint-Maurice de Vienne's imposing facade rises dramatically from riverside reinforcing Catholic authority. Whereas, the Roman Temple d'Auguste et de Livie conjures visions of activity - at various times temple, city hall, parish church, museum and library. Now restored, a lively market can be imagined around this beautifully proportioned Roman temple. Dotted with interesting buildings, Vienne lacks a strong narrative.
Lyon (4.0/5)
The one stop too short to do justice to the port of call and could not possible have done so. Time for just three highlights of France's second city, a commercial and societal counterpoint to Paris dating from pre-Roman times yet buzzing with contemporary life. A city of possibilities for the tourist historian, philosopher, artist or shopper; definitely a place to return to. The Rhône turns east towards Switzerland, Avalon Poetry II follows La Saône northwards.
Basilique Notre-Dame de Fourvière
Up on the hill beyond ruins of Roman theatres and baths stands the Basilique watching over Lyon. A prime example of the wealthy Catholic church, its benefactors and their on-going mission to preserve / restore the social hierarchy after the French Revolution. Respecting the Sunday worshipers the interior is off-limits, but not the city view laid out below and the Basilique’s exterior architecture, a hybrid of Romanesque and Byzantine styles and nineteenth century craftsmanship.
Vieux Lyon (4.0/5)
Down by La Saône lies the historic heart of Lyon, Vieux Lyon: a dense labyrinth of streets with superb examples of buildings from the Middle Ages and Renaissance. Printers and booksellers have largely given way to cafes, restaurants and art shops, though the hustle and bustle of prosperity remains and numerous gems reward the exertion of roving randomly.
UNESCO World Heritage Site #04
Musée des Confluences (4.0/5)
Musée des Confluences (4.0/5)
The extra-ordinary Musée des Confluences challenges the senses and the intellect. Like a spaceship from Men in Black, this silver carbuncle on legs dominates the Rhône/Saône confluence and the architecturally stimulating redevelopment of Lyon’s docklands. Part science, part anthropology, part philosophical the Musee des Confluences asks difficult questions of our perception of humankind and our place in the world.
Tournus (3.0/5)
Tornus is another pleasant if modest French town seeped in Catholic history. A pleasant early morning stroll reveals a town geared towards tourism, the bakeries coming to life and the former Benedictine abbey bathed in warm sunlight. From Tournus it is a long and relaxing day's cruising beneath clear blue skies towards one final stop and disembarkation.
Chalon sur Saône (3.5/5)
A particularly attractive historic commune with its wide clean streets bright and cheerful under the midday morning sun. Unusually Chalon has two squares, one in front of the C8th cathedral, the other bordered by interesting buildings including the Place de l'Hôtel de Ville. More than pretty buildings, Chalon claims to be the birthplace of photography and the internal combustion engine. A charming town worthy of a longer visit some other time.
St Jean De Losne (2.0/5)
Jounery's end and the captain skilfully moors, nestling against a small private vessel occupying one end of the berth. A small but important town where the Soane meets the Burgundy and Rhine-Rhône canals with a large marine underpinning the local tourist industry. Early in the morning St Jean De Losne is a sleepy place and with a sharp departure looming there is fortuitously little to see.
Beaune
Considered the capital of Burgundy wines, Beaune features a charming old central area, vieille ville, that in a busy tourist season could easily lose its appeal to hoards of vacationists. However, the Hospices de Beaune is not to be be missed. An amiable detour on the journey from ship to train and onward to Paris, Burgundy warrants an off-season exploration.
Hospices de Beaune (4.5.5)
Amongst invasions, papal revolts and revolutions Nicolas Rolin, Chancellor of Burgundy, and wife Guigone de Salins thought of the poor and built the magnificent C15th hospital. A beautifully designed and executed set of buildings around a cloistered courtyard with stunning views of the polychrome tiled roof and ornate dormers. Internally large wards are light and airy with carved timber trusses overhead. Now transformed into a fascinating museum primarily recounting medical practices from its founding days.
An interesting aside is the 150 year old annual auction that sells wine from vineyards donated to the hospital. An event that provides a substantial income for the new hospital and also to preserve the outstanding buildings of Hospices de Beaune.Paris
The cruise, now ground-based, finishes with two days in Paris, two walking tours and a couple of galleries. We skipped the Paris-by-night coach tour, sitting inside a box is no way to experience Paris.
Paris by day and a little lunch (3.0/5)
A morning walk took us from Musee du Louvre to Square René-Viviani with its view of the fire damaged Notre Dame. The American-French guide added value to this amble was HIS slightly skeptical commentary bringing a new and questioning perspective to Parisian history. Then onto a lunchtime food tour, notable not so much for its edible delights as the exposition of wealth and Parisian life around the Parc Monceau.
UNESCO World Heritage Site #05
Drive in Paris - don't be crazy
I do not want to drive in Paris, it was just crazy, now it is descending into insanity. Crazy car drivers have been joined by equally reckless two-wheeled charioteers on push-along scooters, electric scooters, motor scooters, super scooters and worst of all bike-share scooters. Mayhem on the roads, clutter on the sidewalks, bike-share markets itself as an environmental saviour but in Paris and other cities it is becoming a hazardous eyesore.
Musee d'Orsay (4.0/0)
A spectacularly transformed 1900s railway station, its vast vaulted ceiling pouring light into the main hall of sculptures, flanked by galleries featuring impressionist and post-Impressionist masterpieces. Passing from hall to gallery, from brightness to conservation dictated lightlessness creates a punctuation mark between exhibits. The standing collection features all the greats, the temporary exhibitions explore aspects of the impressionist art movement. Arriving early is essential, once the gallery fills with visitors contemplative viewing becomes impossible.
Light streams into Gehy's cultural centre. Glass sails billowing like a ship sailing through Bois de Boulogne envelop icebergs of white concrete structures. A mixture of styles: a minimalist lack of ornamentation, deconstructionistic distorted shapes, structural expressionism in exposed steel / timber beams. It works rather well, if self-indulgently of architect and sponsor. Primarily for exhibitions, the permanent site specific installations playing with light, reflections and colour make a visit worthwhile even in quieter times.
Hotel de Collectionneur, Paris (3.5/5)
A large, busy, Parisian hotel with a peculiar Art Deco style. Our room was comfortable if a little cramped by the pitched ceiling that squeezed headspace. De Collectionneur feels that it should have an elegant atmosphere but too much of this depends upon your appreciation of Art Deco. As a tourist hotel it is well-located if expensive and over-elaborate, as a high-end establishment it just misses excellence.
A final disembarkation
It has been a delightful cruise, bookended by cricket in London and culture in Paris. Avalon were excellent hosts and though we only occasionally encountered contemporary France we discovered a history and culture inexorably tied to Europe and beyond. Whilst there is a place for regional and national pride nowhere is an island, peoples mix and cultures evolve - it puts the lie to Brexit and Trumpist isolationism and makes travelling so rewarding.
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