Sunday, August 4, 2013

Two days in Dubai

Forty-eight hours was totally inadequate to do justice to what Dubai has to offer. I have to admit that I arrived in Dubai somewhat underprepared, no research, a smattering of casual reading. In my ignorance I anticipated some towering hotels, lavish architecture and Arabian culture. Though I was uncertain what the latter would entail. Men in dish-dash or tawb and keffiyeh, women in abaya with hijab or niqab? Certainly not much flesh on display. Mosques with minarets and noisy muezzins calling the faithfully to prayer? Crowded, exotic, markets and pestering stall-holders?

My first impression was "It's the Gold Coast!". Massive hotels lining the beach front, monotonous buildings mixed with pastiche slashes of mock architecture. My second impression was "Blimey, its hot and humid". There were several hours between these two not particularly brilliant insights. The first made somewhat dozily after a restless overnight flight from London, the second on waking mid-afternoon and deciding that a bit of fresh air was needed. As it turns out a late start to the day is a good idea as Dubai comes to life in the evening after the heat breaks and Ramadan fasting is broken. Fortunately hotels cater for relaxed dining habits and we get a late lunch.

The thermometer says its 40C, the weather app says it feels like 57C and its right! A dip in the sea seems like a good idea. Wrong!! The Gulf waters are 37C, not exactly refreshing; and the pool is much the same. Strange how the 40C hot pools of Iceland were so enticing, yet in Dubai they're merely pleasant. We retreat to the air conditioned bliss of the Dubai Mall, the largest Mall in the world, and a test of my nerve....

At 829.8m the Burj Khalifa is the tallest man-made structure in the world. The outdoor observation deck on floor 124 and 452m is the second highest in the world and only slightly tempting to someone not so keen on heights. Being Ramadan a stiff drink is definitely out of the question, so it's a stiff upper lip for one minute in the lift. On the deck it's not so bad, safely contained inside four meter glass walls wrapped in cloud the night view is somewhat limited.

The big red bus tour of "old" Dubai tempts us to explore more of the city. But, being Friday it's a quiet day so we stroll hot empty streets and silent souks. The Dubai Museum is open for an informative two hours and leaves us wanting a trip to the desert archeological sites. So that's it, back to the hotel beach 'till dinner, which turns out to be a fun affair. The daily Ramadan fast is broken after sunset with "iftar", offered by many hotels and restaurants as a scrumptious family buffet.

Forty-eight hours in Dubai was enough to say "let's go again". Thankfully Dubai didn't live down to my shallow expectations. Whether it's for a leisure break of towering hotels with sun-blessed beaches and scantily clad girls, malls and fun parks, or an Arabian cultural experience we'll be back.