As a fan of "Frasier" rather than "Sleepless in Seattle" one arrives with a lopsided view of this Pacific Northwest city as a place of refined snobbery based-upon the world of a psychiatrist who filmed just one show in Seattle. Surprisingly Seattle, at least in part, lives up to this image. "Sleepless" is certainly not what springs to mind. One imagines that the people of Seattle must sleep well in a city that feels so middle class and safe, with barely a police siren to spoil a good night's rest.
Local legend that Seattle is overcast grey for nine months of the year and sunny for just three is borne out by the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration that logs 294 cloudy days per annum. Against the odds I arrive on a sunny day and it seems sensible to exchange jet-lag for fresh air and sunlight in the 74 acre Seattle Centre parkland, arts and entertainment precinct. The view of Seattle from the Space Needle is splendid but just didn't do anything for me. Maybe the sunlight and fresh air 160m up on the outdoor viewing platform is not doing its trick (not to mention the clothes I've been in for 24 hours now). But, here's something to take your breath away - the Chihuly Garden and Glass Museum. A glorious fusion of glass and colour in an indoor/outdoor setting that on this very pleasant early summer evening is just magical. Frasier and Niles would expound at length on harmony and colour, I'll just let leave it to the pictures.
Two days is not long to explore a city, even one as small and compact as Seattle. I have arrived with a strategy of guided tours on day one with city strolls planned for day two. A trip to the massive Boeing Everett factory is all-but mandatory with its vast assembly building, the largest in the world by volume (13,385,378 m3). With 747s, 767s, 777s, and 787s in various states of assembly the history of modern airliner construction from riveted aluminium to glue-lam carbon fibre is impressive. Conversely the Future of Flight Centre is dull, the exhibits superficial and the future not much different from today. The morning and afternoon tour guides from Show Me Seattle are friendly and welcoming. The morning guy pushes hard for his tips, the afternoon guide works hard to entertain a small group of three and earns his.
Day 2 is a good workout for the jet-lagged body and mind, beginning with brain stimulation and ending with sore feet. Seattle is reminiscent of Denver with its well preserved historic area, modest and contemporary downtown, leisurely arts precinct and smart residential neighbourhoods, if you ignore the hills and water.
First stop is the Bill & Melinda Gates Foundation visitor centre. A very pleasant surprise from all those dumbed-down, superficial exhibits that seem so commonplace nowadays. "Arrive curious, leave inspired" is the motto and well is such aspiration delivered with informative and stimulating interactive exhibits that reveal the depth and breadth of the Foundation's work to give everyone the chance to live a healthy, productive life. To be honest my appreciation of the Foundation's work was limited to finding a malaria vaccine. It was therefore fascinating to discover that the Foundation is engaged in health, education and housing projects in the US and overseas.
How a fishmongers came to be the inspiration for a book on management I've never understood and a visit to Pike Place Market, the home of "FISH", left me none the wiser. Whatever the merits of the FISH philosophy, the fishmongers occasionally perform for the tourists. The market is enjoyable and colourful, a delightful delicatessen of mouth-watering produce, artwork and miscellaneous goods.
Pioneer Square harks back to the Klondike Gold Rush era (1897), a well preserved neighbourhood of later C19 brick built buildings. Formerly hotels, gambling dens, lodgings, brothels and the usual paraphernalia that follows a population explosion seeking to get rich quick. Today, a refined mix of galleries, professional offices, restaurants and cafes. Though the actual Square remains attractive to the homeless, much as it must have done over 100 years ago.
By way of contrast, one block east, the Seattle Central Library displays all the expressive vulgarity of contemporary architecture. Uncomfortably occupying a full block the external angles are reminiscent of a jelly removed too soon from its mould. Internally the vast array of windows and full height atrium flood each floor with natural light, creating a suitably calm atmosphere for study or leisure reading.
Meanwhile, down by the rail line the Olympic Sculpture Park shows-off what thoughtful urban planning can do for an otherwise derelict area. A linear park of structures and neatly laid out greenery crosses the railway and soon to be buried highway, both built to serve the docks but today are a barrier between people and harbour.
With the edge taken off the distinctive polite confidence of so many white middle-class Americans and replaced by a reservedness that is typical of its northern neighbour, Seattle could easily be Canadian. It doesn't feel like the home of Jimi Hendrix and Nirvana it's just too secure, although may be that very security gave rise to the rebellious youth of grunge.
And so with tired feet we retire to the Washington Athletic Club. A little piece of refinement, though probably not exclusive enough for the Doctors Crane.
Local legend that Seattle is overcast grey for nine months of the year and sunny for just three is borne out by the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration that logs 294 cloudy days per annum. Against the odds I arrive on a sunny day and it seems sensible to exchange jet-lag for fresh air and sunlight in the 74 acre Seattle Centre parkland, arts and entertainment precinct. The view of Seattle from the Space Needle is splendid but just didn't do anything for me. Maybe the sunlight and fresh air 160m up on the outdoor viewing platform is not doing its trick (not to mention the clothes I've been in for 24 hours now). But, here's something to take your breath away - the Chihuly Garden and Glass Museum. A glorious fusion of glass and colour in an indoor/outdoor setting that on this very pleasant early summer evening is just magical. Frasier and Niles would expound at length on harmony and colour, I'll just let leave it to the pictures.
Two days is not long to explore a city, even one as small and compact as Seattle. I have arrived with a strategy of guided tours on day one with city strolls planned for day two. A trip to the massive Boeing Everett factory is all-but mandatory with its vast assembly building, the largest in the world by volume (13,385,378 m3). With 747s, 767s, 777s, and 787s in various states of assembly the history of modern airliner construction from riveted aluminium to glue-lam carbon fibre is impressive. Conversely the Future of Flight Centre is dull, the exhibits superficial and the future not much different from today. The morning and afternoon tour guides from Show Me Seattle are friendly and welcoming. The morning guy pushes hard for his tips, the afternoon guide works hard to entertain a small group of three and earns his.
Day 2 is a good workout for the jet-lagged body and mind, beginning with brain stimulation and ending with sore feet. Seattle is reminiscent of Denver with its well preserved historic area, modest and contemporary downtown, leisurely arts precinct and smart residential neighbourhoods, if you ignore the hills and water.
First stop is the Bill & Melinda Gates Foundation visitor centre. A very pleasant surprise from all those dumbed-down, superficial exhibits that seem so commonplace nowadays. "Arrive curious, leave inspired" is the motto and well is such aspiration delivered with informative and stimulating interactive exhibits that reveal the depth and breadth of the Foundation's work to give everyone the chance to live a healthy, productive life. To be honest my appreciation of the Foundation's work was limited to finding a malaria vaccine. It was therefore fascinating to discover that the Foundation is engaged in health, education and housing projects in the US and overseas.
How a fishmongers came to be the inspiration for a book on management I've never understood and a visit to Pike Place Market, the home of "FISH", left me none the wiser. Whatever the merits of the FISH philosophy, the fishmongers occasionally perform for the tourists. The market is enjoyable and colourful, a delightful delicatessen of mouth-watering produce, artwork and miscellaneous goods.
Pioneer Square harks back to the Klondike Gold Rush era (1897), a well preserved neighbourhood of later C19 brick built buildings. Formerly hotels, gambling dens, lodgings, brothels and the usual paraphernalia that follows a population explosion seeking to get rich quick. Today, a refined mix of galleries, professional offices, restaurants and cafes. Though the actual Square remains attractive to the homeless, much as it must have done over 100 years ago.
By way of contrast, one block east, the Seattle Central Library displays all the expressive vulgarity of contemporary architecture. Uncomfortably occupying a full block the external angles are reminiscent of a jelly removed too soon from its mould. Internally the vast array of windows and full height atrium flood each floor with natural light, creating a suitably calm atmosphere for study or leisure reading.
Meanwhile, down by the rail line the Olympic Sculpture Park shows-off what thoughtful urban planning can do for an otherwise derelict area. A linear park of structures and neatly laid out greenery crosses the railway and soon to be buried highway, both built to serve the docks but today are a barrier between people and harbour.
With the edge taken off the distinctive polite confidence of so many white middle-class Americans and replaced by a reservedness that is typical of its northern neighbour, Seattle could easily be Canadian. It doesn't feel like the home of Jimi Hendrix and Nirvana it's just too secure, although may be that very security gave rise to the rebellious youth of grunge.
And so with tired feet we retire to the Washington Athletic Club. A little piece of refinement, though probably not exclusive enough for the Doctors Crane.
