Brussels for 24 hours

My abiding impression of Brussels was formed within a few minutes of arrival whilst I walked, on a warm summer evening, from Brussels-Midi railway station to my hotel some three kilometres distant through the Marolles neighbourhood. I was surprised by the multi-ethnic mix of the local population, the dust and cars, and the level of homelessness, all much more prominent than in any other European city I have visited recently. On this particular sun-bathed evening the streets seemed safe enough with younger residents skateboarding or enjoying a football or basketball game. Yet, the stores secured with steel shutters and a scarcity of alfresco dining suggested that on another occasion a different story might emerge.

The pedestrianisation works in the area around La Bourse seem to be the source of much of the dust. I doubt this will bring much relief to the 225,000 people who everyday drive into gridlocked Brussels (population 1.2 million). When, at some date in the future, Brussels catches-up with the European trend towards car-free and pedestrian friendly cities, the diversity of opportunities buried in multicultural communities may be freed to thrive and bring a more contemporary feel to the city’s suburbs (25% of Belgium’s population is of non-European origin of which about half are non-Western).

The search for a good coffee shop is a good reason to explore any city on foot, Brussels was no exception in this respect. Confused by Apple Maps I followed a haphazard route up and down the hilly cityscape traversing old narrow streets and not so attractive modern office developments, through the magnificent nineteenth century Galerie de la Reine with its very tempting chocolatiers and the interesting 50's architecture of the under-used Galerie Ravenstein arcade that links uptown and downtown Brussels. A pause to enjoy the refreshing greenness of Brussels Park, if strangely flowerless, was very welcome before diving into the old town from the Cathedral of St.Michael and St.Gudula to Grand Place. My quest for coffee rewarded at My Little Cup, which may be small in size but is mighty in the quality of its coffee. Brussels has so much potential but repeatedly just fell short, my experience at the visitor centre being typical: very helpful directions to Atomium, no mention of changing to bus as the tram service was curtailed. I will return to Brussels as I’d like to see the galleries and European Union buildings, but I will keep my expectations in check.

26/27 June 2018

Brussels: The Reviews

in 75 words or less

My Little Cup (5/5)

An excellent cup-sized coffee shop just off the main business streets. The coffee is sharp with a slightly bitter after taste that is very much to my liking. The place is so small that the food offer is necessarily limited though the coffee more than compensates for this minor inconvenience.

Grand Place (4/5)

The magnificent Grand Place (Great Square/Grote Markt) speaks of another era when the city burgers and guilds ostentatiously displayed their power and wealth. On all sides are faithfully restored grand buildings in Gothic and Italian Baroque style, all fine stonework and gold leaf. A hive of activity as it must always have been, the market stall holders have been replaced by guides and hucksters chasing the tourist euro. Avoid the crowds by visiting early.

Museum of the City of Brussels (2/5)

This former symbol of ducal power in Grand Place somewhat haphazardly recounts the history of Brussels through tapestries, altar pieces, statutes and dioramas. Much of it might be politely described as 'static'. Despite the helpful translation cards scattered about something is possibly lost in translation and one gains little understanding of why events happened. This is certainly not as good a city museum as those seen recently in Berlin and Luxembourg.

Cathedral of St. Michael and St. Gudula (3/5)

Typical gothic style cathedral of which many European examples. Of particular interest are the stain glass windows that when lit on sunny day reveal extraordinary colours and detail. The 17th century baroque pulpit carved in dark timber dramatically portrays the fall of Adam and Eve and must have been a powerful setting for the preachers oratory. A short visit is justified if only to admire the great skill of craftsmen from the middle ages.

Atomium (4/5)

Surprisingly interesting despite initial reservations induced by the uninspiring approach from the station and taciturn staff. The upmost sphere’s panoramic views reveal the scale of 1958’s World Fair for which this iron molecule was built. Exploring the lower spheres via connecting tubes of stairs and escalators it’s quite impressive how much space lies inside the metallic maze. The World Fair and Atomium’s design are well-explained, making for a more rewarding experience than anticipated.