To my mind Lonely Planet over-rates Hilo, which it describes in exciting hedonistic or "Hilonistic" terms. Yes, the main street, Kamehameha Avenue, features a range of local clothing and art, lifestyle, healthy eating and exercising options, but it's all pretty safe so long as you avoid the unfortunate homeless population. The architecture hovers between art nouveaux and rundown small town - perfect for launching a hedonistic revival. It's probably best to visit Wednesday to Saturday rather than Sunday to Tuesday as we did. Most places are closed on Sunday and a number take Monday off as well. Also, the renown Farmers Market is apparently at its best on Wednesday and Saturday - it certainly wasn't doing much on Sunday and Monday. As there weren't too many places open to explore I'll just note Naupaka Island Design that sells excellent locally designed and made clothing, Surf Break Cafe for tasty coffee and snacks, and Abundant Life Natural Foods for wholesome groceries.
